Maryborough
The Sunday Age
Sunday May 30, 2004
Colonial architecture and antiques will always draw the crowds, writes Peter Robinson.
WHY: Follow a gold-rush route north of Ballarat to one of the state's most beautiful railway stations.
DISTANCE FROM MELBOURNE: Maryborough is 165 kilometres from the city.
TIME: Five hours but allow a full day depending on sightseeing along the way.
ROUTE: Western Freeway to Creswick, and then to Clunes, Talbot and finally Maryborough. Alternatively, return via the Pyrenees Highway to Castlemaine, then Calder Freeway.
ON THE WAY: Creswick has many grandiose buildings. You'll find ample evidence of 19th century architecture. Compare it with the Clunes streetscape and further along, somnolent but quaint Talbot.
WHAT TO DO: Maryborough's main drain holds more historic significance than visitor fascination. The town's Phillips Gardens host the long, stone-faced drain, one of Victoria's earliest examples of public work constructed with convict labour.
For early colonial architecture head straight for the railway station to admire its Dutch gables, tall clock tower and broad sheltered platform. Built in 1892, it was intended to be an enduring expression of grandeur for the budding colony, as well as a main rail centre. It's also rumoured that the design was originally intended as Spencer Street Station in Melbourne.
The railway station is now home to an antique emporium, art gallery, wood-work gallery and cafe.
Well-maintained facades of pubs like the Bull & Mouth, and some defunct banks, mingle with craft and antique shops - some of which are open over weekends.
MacLandress Square features an 1870 post office, town hall and courthouse. Also worth visiting are Worsley Cottage, the old fire station (now a regional art complex), and Bristol Hill Tower (via Raglan Street), which provides great views over town.
Graziers and squatters settled the region, but Maryborough grew courtesy of gold mining during the 1850s when some 53,000 people were camped on the digs. Decades of deep lead mining, something that neighbouring Dunolly, Talbot and Moliagul lacked, drove the optimism for the town's consolidation.
EATING AND DRINKING: Creswick, Clunes and Talbot have cafes, bakeries or general stores for morning tea on the way - the best choice is Clunes. Maryborough's choice on Sundays is limited to a couple of cafes and some hearty pub lunches. Wine buffs can visit the restaurant at Tipperary Hill Estate at Alma, 5.5 kilometres from town (bookings required, phone 5461 3312).
© 2004 The Sunday Age
